Find affordable car insurance that's right for you
Getting the minimum amount of car insurance is risky business.
However, not everyone can afford a bunch of additional coverage. And,
some people might not need anything but the minimum. In those cases,
having state-mandated coverage is far better (read: legal) than having
no insurance at all.
But how do you find the cheapest rate? I examined over 250 quotes
from 28 different companies and found three auto insurers that offer the
most affordable policies anywhere in the country. Keep in mind, though,
everyone’s individual rates will vary.
Best Cheap Car Insurance Companies
- GEICO
- State Farm
- Progressive
How I Chose the Best Cheap Car Insurance Companies
First, I found the top five to seven insurance providers in each
state by selecting companies with above-average customer satisfaction
ratings from J.D. Power and high financial strength marks from A.M.
Best. Why? Because cheap auto insurance policies are great, but
purchasing them from unreliable or fickle insurers could wind up being
far more expensive down the road.
Then, with some help from the team at The Simple Dollar, we applied
for over 250 quotes both online and over the phone from my pool of auto
insurance companies from all 50 states. Each member of the team used
personal information during the quote process to ensure that we could
see who was consistently cheapest across the country with a handful of
scenarios. What did remain the same, however, was the amount coverage we
applied for: each state’s minimum coverage. No frills, no extras; just
the absolute minimum coverage to legally drive on the road.
Next, I tallied and compared how many times each company had the
first, second, or third cheapest yearly premium. I awarded five points
for first place, three points for second place, and one point for third
place.
As it turns out, the cheap car insurance market is dominated by three
main providers: GEICO, State Farm, and Progressive. (The other 25
insurers didn’t even score high enough to register in my test.) And, as
you can see below, GEICO was the overwhelming victor.
Insurer | # of 1st Place Awards | # of 2nd Place Awards | # of 3rd Place Awards | Total Score |
GEICO | 19 | 16 | 2 | 145 |
State Farm | 12 | 14 | 12 | 114 |
Progressive | 7 | 5 | 3 | 53 |
GEICO
GEICO was the cheapest option in 19 of the 50 states. It was also one of the three most affordable options 75 percent of the time,
and its best offer was often hundreds of dollars cheaper than the
next-best competitor. Take these annual quotes for New York,
Pennsylvania, and Washington for example.
New York | Pennsylvania | Washington |
GEICO: $329 | GEICO: $225 | GEICO: $623 |
Allstate: $538 | State Farm: $394 | Allstate: $898 |
*Note: Occasionally, the reason GEICO was able to beat its
competition by such a large margin was because the other insurers
required slightly more coverage than the state mandated.
The gecko-loving company is without a doubt the most consistently
affordable option out there, so it deserves a shopper’s consideration.
And, it’s true, according to my research, it is safe to say that 15
minutes could often save you “15 percent or more” on a state-minimum
policy. However, its range of coverages and discounts don’t particularly
shine when compared to a competitor like Allstate. Allstate customers
enjoy prepay discounts, low-mileage discounts, interior vehicle
coverage, and new car replacement — all of which are not offered at
GEICO.
When it comes to customer service ratings, GEICO doesn’t have
anything to write home about. (It fell just under the industry average according to JD Power.) But, if you’re dead-set on purchasing the least amount of insurance that you possibly need, then GEICO is your best bet.
State Farm
State Farm
had a lower overall score than GEICO, but wound up in the top three a
total of 38 times (GEICO only placed 37 times). When State Farm placed,
it usually fell between $30 to $50 dollars of the competition. Though,
it occasionally would surprise me with a GEICO-like rate. The two best
examples of this are Minnesota and South Carolina. In Minnesota, State
Farm was $120 cheaper than American Family, and in South Carolina it
beat GEICO by a whopping $223.
Quotes aside, State Farm is the nation’s largest auto insurer. It
ranks consistently well for customer satisfaction and rates above
average in most of the regions of the J.D. Power survey. It also earns
A.M. Best’s top marks (A++) for financial strength. All that’s to say it
is a great choice if you can spare a few extra dollars each month.
Plus, it has the best tools of any auto insurance provider out there,
including mobile bill pay, mobile claim filing, and a pay-by-bank
account option.
Progressive
Progressive
only placed 1st in seven states, and when it did, it was usually less
than $20 ahead of the runner-up (which was usually GEICO). That doesn’t
mean Progressive is never a viable option, though. Consider the state of
Montana, where Progressive came in $22 cheaper for the year. So for
less than $2 more each month, a Montana driver could take advantage of
mobile claims filing, loyalty discounts, prepay discounts, and
low-mileage discounts that GEICO doesn’t offer.
Where to Find Car Insurance Discounts
Once you’ve seen some quotes, you need to master discounts — the key
to cheap car insurance rates. Many insurers have a wide variety of
overlooked deductions that go beyond bundling or insuring multiple
vehicles, and some of them are less obvious than you may think.
Driving Schools
Driving education is a discount opportunity many don’t know exist.
Drivers who pass an accredited driver’s ed class or defensive driving
training are eligible for a sizeable price reduction. The amount of this
discount isn’t standardized across the nation or with insurers, but according to DriversEd.com,
some drivers might welcome as much as a 10% decrease in their bill.
Plus, if you’ve recently received a ticket, enrolling in a defensive
driving course can prevent the premium hike on your insurance (most
companies only let you do this once every 12 months).
Defensive driving courses cover topics such as traffic laws, drug-
and alcohol-impaired driving, and inclement-weather driving and are
often available online or at commercial driving schools. Courses for
defensive driving can be found through your local DMV or community
center. Most run about six hours long and cost anywhere from $50 to $300
a person.
After completing a defensive driving course, participants will
receive a certificate that can be presented to insurance companies to
qualify for a discount. Depending on the insurance company, drivers may
also have to retake the course and be current on their certification in
order to continue receiving the discount.
If you aren’t the only person covered on your auto policy, consider
getting all the drivers on your policy — especially teens, as they are
expensive to insure — to take a defensive driving course and you will be
eligible for additional discounts.
Good Student Discounts
These discounts are typically given to drivers under the age of 25
who are enrolled full time at a high school or college or university and
are maintaining at least a 3.0 grade point average (or are on the honor
roll or dean’s list).
What about the savings? According to CarInsurance.com, the discount
can range anywhere from 5% to 10%, making it one of the most profitable
and achievable discounts of all. Consider Travelers, which offers good students up to 8% off.
In order to prove satisfactory academic achievement and receive the
discount, students need a current transcript or a letter signed by a
school administrator. Students who are homeschooled can present
standardized test results, such as their SAT or ACT scores, that are
within a desired percentile range in order to qualify. Good grades can
continue saving you money after graduation as some insurance companies
extend this discount to post-grads for a limited time.
If you’re a student, or the parent of a student, you can learn even more at The Simple Dollar’s student guide to car insurance.
Safe-Driver Discounts
Drivers with a clean driving record — a standard that is determined
by each individual insurance provider — are eligible for hefty
discounts. Having a squeaky clean record not only gives you a discount
opportunity; it can also save you a lot more money in the short term.
There is no universal definition of safe driving, though. Insurance
companies generally mean avoiding collisions and accidents for which you
can be found at fault, and moving violations such as speeding, driving
under the influence, or reckless driving.
Resident student discounts
These discounts can be offered to students attending college more
than 100 miles away from home. They are intended to be used exclusively
by those students who are not planning to drive the insured vehicle
while at school but may use it while they are home for vacations.
Other Discounts to Consider
- Active-duty military and veterans discounts
- Car alarm systems or other safety equipment discounts
- Paid-in-full or prepay discounts
- Occupation and member discounts
- Low mileage discounts
One of the most important things you can do while shopping is
to ask the insurance company for a complete list of discounts because
not all may be advertised.
Major Car Insurance Types
Though companies offer several more nuanced options and add-ons, the three major types of auto insurance boil down to:
- Liability coverage
- Collision coverage
- Comprehensive coverage
Liability Coverage
Liability coverage, required by law in most states, covers the other
driver’s personal injury and property damage in a crash where you’re
found to be at fault. It does not cover your own injuries or property
damage. Buying only liability insurance is always going to be your
cheapest option, though not necessarily the wisest. (Sometimes it makes sense to carry only liability coverage, and sometimes it doesn’t.)
You’ll probably see your liability coverage written like this on your
quote or car insurance policy: $50,000/$100,000/$50,000 (or 50/100/50).
That means you have $50,000 in bodily injury coverage for each person,
$100,000 in bodily injury coverage total, and $50,000 in coverage for
property damage. Each state requires its own minimum amount of liability
insurance.
Buying the bare minimum is tempting since it will keep your rates as
low as possible. Unfortunately, that’s a bad idea — a bad crash can mean
your costs will easily surpass low state minimums, and then you’ll have
to pay up. In North Carolina for example, its minimum for bodily injury
is $30,000, but the average cost of a non-fatal disabling auto-wreck
injury is over $60,000.
If you only have the state’s minimum coverage, you could wind up paying
over $30,000 out of pocket. And if you don’t have that kind of money
laying around, your other assets become vulnerable.
Collision coverage
Collision coverage covers the damage to your car sustained in a
crash. This most commonly covers accidents when you’re found to be at
fault, but it may also pay in certain circumstances when another driver is at fault, or in scenarios not covered under your other policies.
The cost of your collision coverage will largely depend on your car’s
value, but you do control the deductible — the amount you pay out of
pocket before your insurance company picks up the rest of the tab.
Comprehensive coverage
True to its name, comprehensive car insurance covers almost any
car-related calamity you can think of minus damage resulting from a
crash. Instead, comprehensive policies pay for things like auto theft,
damage from severe weather, or needed repairs after a late-night
rendezvous with a disoriented deer.
Comprehensive coverage is meant to complement collision coverage, not
replace it. Like collision coverage, the cost will depend on your car,
but you control your deductible.
What types of car insurance do I really need?
Comprehensive and collision coverage seem like a smart choice, but
they come with a much heftier price tag than liability-only insurance.
If you took out a loan to pay for your car, you probably don’t have a
choice — your lender will require proof of comprehensive and collision
coverage. Dropping this coverage usually isn’t a good idea for anyone
without the savings to pay for repairs out of pocket.
But, there are situations when opting only for liability makes sense.
For instance, if you drive an older, paid-off vehicle that you can
easily fix or replace, keeping only liability coverage can mean
significant savings. Comprehensive and collision coverage may also be
overkill on any car you drive sparingly.
To see how much I would save on auto insurance by nixing all coverage
but liability, I plugged a few stats into a quote generator. I used the
persona of a married male in his early 30s driving a paid-off 2011
Hyundai Sonata. I said he lives in a small Southern city, has a clean
driving record, and averages 12,000 miles a year. A policy with
50/100/50 in liability, as well as comprehensive and collision policies
with $250 deductibles, would set him back $45 a month. Dropping the
comprehensive and collision policies would bring my bill down to just
$24 a month — almost half the the cost.
Would I personally drop my comprehensive and collision policies? No,
because my 2013 Jeep Patriot is still relatively new and would cost a
significant sum to repair or replace. My brother, however, drives a 1984
Ford F150. At best, it’s worth around $3,000 — and his policy is only
$19 a month! For him, dropping comprehensive and collision coverage made
a lot more sense.
The bottom line: Liability coverage is your cheapest
option and meets the legal requirement, but dropping collision and
comprehensive coverage might be a risky move if it would be a major
financial hardship to fix or replace your car after an accident.
Add-Ons and Other Types of Coverages
There are a number of other coverage types and add-ons, some of which
may be required in certain states. Of particular note is personal
injury protection, which pays your medical expenses after a crash.
If you’re trying to keep your bill low, personal injury coverage probably isn’t a smart buy as long as you have a good health insurance plan — there would be too much overlap between the two policies.
There are also uninsured and underinsured motorist coverages, which
get you off the hook after a crash where the other driver is at fault
but doesn’t carry enough (or any) insurance and can’t afford to pay.
Other add-ons pay for rental cars while your car is being fixed and for
roadside assistance.
As for other little add-ons, consider skipping them. If you can cover
the cost of a rental (or borrow a car from a friend while you’re in a
jam), rental-car riders are unnecessary, and a AAA membership is often a better deal than roadside assistance coverage if you have an older vehicle.
What car insurance is required in my state?
Each state has different requirements when it comes to car insurance.
Many simply require liability insurance (both bodily injury and
property damage). Others go a step or two further, requiring add-ons
such as personal injury protection and uninsured or underinsured
motorist coverage. Visit the table below and locate your state to find
your state’s requirements.
According to the Insurance Information Institute,
here are the kinds of insurance each state requires as of September
2015, as well as the minimum required amounts of liability insurance.
The only state that does not require liability insurance is New
Hampshire; however, that state still mandates that you show you have
sufficient funds to meet state requirements if you’re at fault in a
crash.
Types of insurance required | Minimum required liability insurance | |
Alabama | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/25 |
Alaska | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 50/100/25 |
Arizona | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 15/30/10 |
Arkansas | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection | 25/50/25 |
California | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 15/30/5 |
Colorado | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/15 |
Connecticut | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 20/40/10 |
Delaware | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection | 15/30/10 |
District of Columbia | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection, uninsured motorist | 25/50/10 |
Florida | Property damage liability, personal injury protection | 10/20/10 |
Georgia | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/25 |
Hawaii | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection | 20/40/10 |
Idaho | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/15 |
Illinois | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 25/50/20 |
Indiana | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/10 |
Iowa | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 20/40/15 |
Kansas | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 25/50/10 |
Kentucky | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection | 25/50/10 |
Louisiana | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 15/30/25 |
Maine | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist, medical payments | 50/100/25 |
Maryland | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 30/60/15 |
Massachusetts | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 20/40/5 |
Michigan | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection | 20/40/10 |
Minnesota | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 30/60/10 |
Mississippi | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/25 |
Missouri | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist | 25/50/10 |
Montana | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/10 |
Nebraska | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 25/50/25 |
Nevada | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 15/30/10 |
New Hampshire | Uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist, medical payments | 25/50/25 (minimum available in NH, but not required by state law if you show sufficient funds) |
New Jersey | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 15/30/5 |
New Mexico | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/10 |
New York | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection, uninsured motorist,wrongful death | 25/50/10 |
North Carolina | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 30/60/25 |
North Dakota | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 25/50/25 |
Ohio | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/25 |
Oklahoma | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/25 |
Oregon | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 25/50/25 |
Pennsylvania | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection | 15/30/5 |
Rhode Island | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/25 |
South Carolina | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist | 25/50/25 |
South Dakota | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 25/50/25 |
Tennessee | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/15 |
Texas | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 30/60/25 |
Utah | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, personal injury protection | 25/65/15 |
Vermont | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 25/50/10 |
Virginia | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist, underinsured motorist | 25/50/20 |
Washington | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/10 |
West Virginia | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist | 25/40/10 |
Wisconsin | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability, uninsured motorist | 25/50/10 |
Wyoming | Bodily injury liability, property damage liability | 25/50/20 |
Six Tips to Find Cheap Auto Insurance
Certain factors that affect your car insurance rates are largely
beyond your control. These include basic demographics such as your age,
gender, marital status, location, and job.
But other factors, including what and how you drive, are easier to
change. So, comparison shop, exploit discounts, and consider bundling
policies to find the cheapest car insurance companies, too.
Shop Around
It’s a no-brainer, but it always pays to shop around for cheaper car insurance. Instead of wasting time making endless phone calls or filling out the same information on dozens of websites, save time by using an online quote tool. Online quote tools help you get a quick snapshot of potential rates from several auto-insurance companies at once.
It’s a no-brainer, but it always pays to shop around for cheaper car insurance. Instead of wasting time making endless phone calls or filling out the same information on dozens of websites, save time by using an online quote tool. Online quote tools help you get a quick snapshot of potential rates from several auto-insurance companies at once.
More importantly, getting multiple auto insurance quotes helps you avoid becoming a victim to something called price optimization.
Price optimization is the devious practice of of establishing rates
based upon how much insurance companies think customers are comfortable
paying.
Earnix, a pricing analytics platform, found that 45% of larger insurance companies
use this tactic to maximize their profits. These insurers mine and
analyze a ton of personal data, like credit scores and web shopping
habits, to determine how likely you are to leave them for another auto
insurance company. The bottom line is this: Auto insurance companies are
going to charge you based upon how much money they believe they can
comfortably squeeze from your pocket, not who you are as a driver.
Getting new quotes on the regular is the best way to avoid price
optimization because, just like other personal data, insurers can see
how often you shop around. The more you do it, the less likely they are
to risk upping your premium and lose you as a customer.
Source : http://www.thesimpledollar.com/cheap-car-insurance/
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